Le Servan | Restaurant | Natural wine | 11th | Paris

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Le Servan
Restaurants and bars
Open: Lunch Tue - Fri and dinner Mon - Fri
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 55 28 51 82
Address: 32 Rue Saint-Maur
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Le Servan is a classic neighbourhood restaurant run by sisters Katia and Tatiana Levha in a neighbourhood that loves the type of food being served and loves the wines that are available.
In a country that is averse to the intake of spices and chilli, the dishes here defy the norm. For example, a dish of bulots was served with a mayo spiced up with a mild, but noticeable, dried pepper flakes. Deep fried wontons of boudin noir were accompanied by a classy sweet chilli sauce.
But not all the dishes were laced with spice. The main courses of Lieu Noir and Onglet were classic in their execution and saucing.
The onglet was cooked saignant and was accompanied by a purée of black sesame, bitter leaves and tiny violet cabbages. This was a clever and delicious dish!
The wine list ranges widely over the best of natural wines from across France. Champagnes from Marie Courtin, pet nats from La Grande Tiphane, whites from Alexandre Bain, Domaine Valette and Fanny Sabre, reds from Patrick Boujou, Jean Foillard and La Ferme Saint Martin give diners plenty of choice.
The atmosphere here is laid back and quite casual, the waiting staff generally efficient and the large windows onto the street allow light to penetrate to round out the package.

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