RR Gastrobar | Raoul Reichrath | Natural wine | Natural Wine | Faucon | France

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Review
 
RR Gastrobar HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Vaison-la-Romaine
Open: May to Sep, Thu-Mon lunch and dinner
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 4 90 46 49 14
Address: route de Vaison
Faucon, Provence, 84110
Country: France

RR Gastrobar in Faucon is the new restaurant for Raoul Reichrath whose food we used to thoroughly enjoy at his former premises Le Grand Pre. He now has a restaurant attached to the La Roche Buissiere winery in the tiny village of Faucon which lies just north of Vaison-la-Romaine in Provence.
Raoul is a very talented chef who has a talent for hunting down good producers and also for finding many ways to prepare a particular ingredient.
He has published a book on figs, for example with many delicious recipes. This area of Provence is famous for figs and in August and September they can be bought throughout Vaucluse with the most famous being the slightly elongated Carombais figs from the village of Caromb.
And now to the restaurant itself. As you enter you will notice a produce store to the left and the restaurant on the right, leading out to a large and inviting terrace with great views over the surrounding bucolic countryside. The open kitchen is at the back of the restaurant and you can clearly see the chefs preparing the dishes.
A complimentary plate of very nice hummus with whole chickpeas, almonds, snipped chives and olive oil was both perfectly executed and deeply flavoursome. This was a very pleasant way to start the meal.
We decided to order a la carte rather than our usual practice of ordering a set menu for lunch. The reason is that there were one or two dishes that caught our eye that were not available through the chef's selections. We also ordered a very nice bottle of La Roche Buissiere rosé to accompany the dishes we were about to order. The wines from this domaine are naturally fermented and for thirty years they have not used chemicals in the vineyard.
However, the wine list is not confined to the wines of the host domaine as there are clever choices from throughout France including those of Didier Barral from the Languedoc, Noella Morantin from the Loire, Jo Landron from Muscadet and Domaine Valette from the Macon.
The coeur de boeuf tomato (ox heart) dish was served with a thin glass of tomato vichyssoise on the side. The tomato pieces were strongly flavoured courtesy of the warm summer experienced in Provence this year and the vichyssoise was made with care and attention with all the flavours and textures being perfectly balanced.
The other starter was a dish of braised onions served on a tomato sauce with shaved parmesan which was very satisfying.
The star dish, however was to follow. The description was a little puzzling because it was described as brandade, bulots and soup de roche. Now brandade is that beautiful, assertive mash made from salted cod, bulots are sea snails and soup de roche is the deeply-flavoured Provencal soup made from small rock fish which the Mediterranean has in abundance. This was a very fine soup finished to order (we could see that soup being sieved at the pass) and then poured over the brandade and bulots that were placed in the bottom of a deep bowl. The combined ingredients were then topped with ribbons of zucchini! This was an amazing dish of great complexity - we loved it.
Our other main dish was swordfish cooked two ways. The hot version was accompanied by beautiful braised white beans and a small leaf salad and the cold version was served in a tomato stew. Both were very good.
We shared a dessert to finish. This was served as three separate components. The first was a very nice peach sorbet served with tapioca and blueberries. Next was a pannacotta drizzled with a red wine reduction topping some fresh peaches. And the third of the components was a dish a marinated watermelon which was a very refreshing end to the meal.
 
     
 

RR Gastrobar in Faucon, Provence

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