Lyle's | Restaurant | London | United Kingdom Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Restaurants and bars
Location: 51.523728, -0.076320
Open: Lunch and dinner Mon - Sat
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +44 20 3011 5911
Address: Tea Building, 56 Shoreditch High Street
Shoreditch, E1 6JJ
Country: United Kingdom

Lyle's in London's Shoreditch is a wonderful example of an informal restaurant serving simply outstanding food in a pleasant environment. This place is the complete package. A talented chef who understands precise cooking and perfect seasoning. Staff who provide very professional service while making diners feel relaxed and comfortable. And a white-walled, light-filled room that has not been overdone or tricked up.
Even the music is cleverly curated with names such as Caribou, Warpaint, Neil Young, Blondie and Midlake likely to get a run.
But the wow factor for us was the precision of the cooking and the perfection of the seasoning. We can well remember a meal at Attica in Melbourne where every dish served to us in a degustation exhibited perfect seasoning - not too bold, not under-seasoned, just right. Well, we felt exactly the same way about our meal at Lyle's. James Lowe is a clever chef who knows what to include in a dish and what to leave out!
We started with a nourishing game broth with a Burford brown egg, excellent turnips and a turnip top. The broth had been expertly made and with great depth of flavour.
The best way for a restaurant to reel us in is to offer a dish seasoned with anchovies!. There was little doubt, therefore, that we would order the lamb's heart, broccoli and anchovy which turned out to be an equally delicious dish based on very good ingredients.
For main course a dish of teal and thinly-sliced Jerusalem artichokes exhibited finely judged cooking and excellent seasoning. The accomanying light juices enhanced the dish rather than overwhelming it. And a dish of Highland flank steak, nicely aged, with black cabbage and pickled walnuts was equally delicious and also not too large, so that it's comfortable to eat three courses.
Dessert saw a delcious slice of treacle tart accompanied by a milk ice cream which was a perfect way to finsih the meal before heading to the airport for our flight home.
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