Une Ile | Restaurant | Natural wine | Angers

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Review
 
Une Ile Heart
Restaurants and bars
Angers
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 2 41 19 14 48 +33 2 41 19 14 48
Address: 9 rue Max Richard
Angers, 49100
Country: France

Une Ile is a professionally run restaurant in Angers that serves up very good food cooked in the classical tradition but with modern twists and a very light touch. The service is warm and friendly and the wine list highlights the best of the French natural wine movement including Fanny Sabre, Domaine Valette, Fred Cossard, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Dominique Derain, Maxime Magnon, Herve Souhart and Henri Marionnet among others.
Fois gras grille with jus acidule saw a puck of delicate yet rich foie gras sitting atop some nicely cooked cabbage and teamed with a perfect white turnip which helped cut the richness of the protein (as did the wisp of vinegar is the sauce).
Asperges roties aux langoustines saw six plump pieces of perfectly cooked white asparagus bathed in a pool of delicate, foamy sauce and topped with tender pieces of sympathetic langoustines. This was a beautiful match and the richness in the dish made for 'un bon accord' with the Herbel La Pointe Chenin Blanc from the area that we were drinking.
The next dish was a beauty! Half a roasted pigeon that was cooked rare sat atop a chartreuse of foie gras and was bathed in a pool of jus made from the pigeon. It was a perfectly balanced dish.
Two desserts followed. The first was a rectangle of light-as-air chocolate sitting on a biscuit to provide some crunch. The other was a croustillant of mango that was served with mango ice cream. Both desserts were lovely.
We thoroughly enjoyed the Herbel Chenin Blanc with the first of the dishes. Chenin Blanc is a fascinating grape and the resultant wine varies according to the terroir that it expresses. The flints and tuffeau of Vouvray provide an excellent acidic backbone to the Chenin which allow it to last for many years. In the Anjou where the Herbel was made the volcanic soils impart a deep minerality, especially in organic vineyards. This went very well with the food and cut the richness of the foie gras.
Une Ile is a pleasant restaurant that encourages you to relax, sit back and enjoy the precise cooking and the comforting service.
 
     
     
     


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