Pizzeria Mozza | Silverton | Batali | Bastianich | Restaurant | Los Angeles

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Review
 
Pizzeria Mozza HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Los Angeles
Open: Daily noon-midnight
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 323 297 0101
Address: 641 North Highland
Los Angeles, California, 90036
Country: United States

Pizzeria Mozza is THE place to go for flavoursome pizzas and interesting antipasti and dolci. This is another Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali and Joseph Bastianich success story along with next door Osteria Mozza.
It is a restaurant on a human size with seating for perhaps 20 at the two bar areas and further table seating for possibly double that number.
Service from the many waiting staff is very efficient and very attentive. As you enter your eyes will be drawn to the high ceilings and the vividly coloured walls. You will see a wood fired oven in the corner where diners who prefer bar seating can sit and watch the food being prepared. Huge lights hand from the ceiling over this area.
Simple wooden tables line the walls and extend out into the restaurant area with banquette seating being an option.
We ordered four antipasti dishes not realising that the size of each was enormous. However we were pleased with the variety of flavours, textures and presentations that we experienced. Cauliflower fritti were small chunks of cauliflower that had been deep fried in an incredibly thin batter then presented as a pyramid on a plate accompanied by a small bowl of spicy yet sweet sauce.
An antipasti of bone marrow saw the bone split in two and two pieces of marrow on the bone presented along with toasted bread, salt and garlic confit. This was incredibly rich yet beautifully flavoured. The richness was cut with a small salad of celery tops that had the most exquisite, slighly acidic dressing that cut through the marrow.
Five small red and yellow peppers had been grilled to softness then stuffed with nicely flavoured, slightly acidic tuna. They were strewn with green herbs. The flavour was sensational. This was a great dish.
Some fennel-flavoured salami (Finnochiona Salame) was presented on a wooden board without garnish or accompaniment. We love it when chefs have the courage to believe in their product and to know when nothing else is necessary. These slices were nicely flavoured with the fennel seeds and seemed to have a garlic flavour as well.
By this time we were starting to regret having ordered two of the pizzettes instead of one. We have ordered the long cooked broccoli, caciocavallo (a Sicilian cheese similar to provolone) and chilli. This pizza had great flavour and the crust had great texture and perfect elasticity and showed that you should never nmake absolute rules about how to cook anything. The long cooked broccoli had been transformed into a much more complex flavour than if it had been cooked 'al dente'.
However it was the second pizzette that revived our appetites and made us forget that we had eaten too much. We had ordered squash blossoms, tomato and burrata. When it arrived the crust was layered with the blossoms sitting on top of the tomato and cheese base. The pizzette had been cut in quarters and in each quarter was a small mound of the most perfect, ethereal burrata, the famous fresh buffalo cheese from Campania in Italy. However we found out that this cheese was made in Los Angeles by Vito Girardi of the Gioia Cheese Co. This was a taste sensation, perfect cheese, perfect texture, perfect freshness!
We passed up the budino for dessert and instead shared a soffiata filled with perfect pistachio gelato surrounded by Amarena cherries. This was also a lovely dessert made even better by the skill with which the flavour and texture of the gelato had been handled.
We left having had a very good meal with some dishes having been sensational.
Click on the link below to browse photos of the meal.
 
     
     
     


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