Domaine Milan | Henri Milan | St Remy de Provence | Natural wine | France Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Domaine Milan
Natural wine

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson And Roger McShane
Country: France

Domaine Milan occupies prime real estate in the holiday town of St Remy de Provence. The immaculate vineyards are framed by both suburban estates and the famous nearby Alpilles mountains that provide climatic protection for the vineyards.
Here, the gregarious Henri Milan crafts elegant wines using no chemicals, no additives, no commercial yeasts and, in some cases, no added sulphur.
To get to know the wines of Henri Milan you might like to start with the Domaine Milan Les Baux de Provence Domaine Milan Rouge. This is an interesting red wine made from the whole bunch fermentation and carbonic maceration for 5 days of Grenache, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cinsault and Mourvèdre. It then spent a year in used barriques to ensure that the wood does not dominate the fruit. The average age of the vines is 16 years and the vines grow in calcareous soils over a substrate of blue shale.
Lately we have been thoroughly enjoying his Domaine Milan Sans Soufre Ajouté Rouge. The name of this wine gives you a clue about how it was made. In French the words 'Sans Soufre Ajouté' means no added sulphur. This wine has not had sulphur added to the bottle. The only sulphur in it is naturally occurring sulphur which is in miniscule quantities. The wine displays a liveliness and freshness that is typical of naturally-made wines that have not had sulphur added. This is made using Grenache, Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon which was matured for 8 months in old barriques. No filtration or fining has been applied to this wine. It is well worth a try.
Another wine that we love is the Domaine Milan Le Grand Blanc which is an intense, elegant, refined, gorgeous white wine.
British wine writer Jancis Robinson in an article entitled 'A progress report on biodynamic wines in France' summed it up in these words:
"While it’s just a humble Vin de Table, this outclasses many a White Hermitage. It immediately commands attention with its pale gold sheen. An amazingly complex nose is on offer, spice notes come through first before the floral character – broom flowers and even a hint of lavender as it opened up. The complexity continues on the palate, rich and expressive, retaining a fresh character and nerve that underlines a lovely creaminess. Very long indeed, with a slightly bitter finish. This is a very 'intellectual' wine; it makes you think and yet is wonderfully enjoyable too. A very long life ahead. Superb."
Le Grand Blanc usually sees Grenache Blanc, Rolle (the local name for Vermentino), Roussanne, Chardonnay and Muscat Petit Grains used in the blend. This is a beautiful wine that is fresh and lively now but will continue to change character and improve well into the future.
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