Kodbyens Fiskebar | Fish bar | Natural wine | Copenhagen | Denmark

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Review
 
Kodbyens Fiskebar HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Copenhagen
Open: Dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 16

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +45 3215 5656
Address: Flaesketorvet 100
Copenhagen, 1711
Country: Denmark

Kodbyens Fiskebar is a very cool eating and drinking venue set in an old fish processing area in an emerging part of Copenhagen. This place is not aiming to be NOMA, rather it is providing a similar dining experience to places such as Inopia in Barcelona, LOF in Amsterdam, Cumulus in Melbourne, SPQR in San Francisco, Diner in Brooklyn and, maybe, Les Papilles or Le Comptoir in Paris. It is a place where good food matched to interesting wine is celebrated without too much fuss.
As you approach in summer you will see lots of long, unshaded tables outside where locals celebrate the summer sun. Walk inside past the trendy butchers block where the menus are kept to the dark painted concrete floor and dazzling white tiled walls. Recycled wood makes up the feature central bar where the excellent waiting staff go about their alloted tasks.
Backless stools with padded seats line the bar and tables with bentwood chairs are arranged around other spaces in the large room. Waiters in black prowl the room ensuring that every diner is attended to promptly.
Mineral water is house made in an effort to reduce the carbon footprint of the offering.
The menu is offered promptly along with the interesting wine list.
We had some trouble deciding what to order because we would have been happy to order every dish listed on the menu.
We ordered four 'starter' dishes including Limfjorden oysters with a mignonette sauce, bleak roe from the Gulf of Bothnia served with a slice of crisp bread, a stunning dish of brill rolled with Limfjord oysters in a ribbon of celariac studded with herbs and flowers and Atlantic razor clams served with a salad including fennel and ramson onions.
We then followed this with a main course size dish of cod baked with brown butter - a very Danish dish. We finished with the most amazing dessert of Finnish rhubarb with a granita, sweet cream, tonga nuts and lemon. But more of this later!
The wine list was also very appealing to us. It covered many of the natural wines that we have become obsessed with. We were delighted to see offerings from Jo Pithon from the Loire Valley, Jean Foillard from Morgon in Beaujolais, Olivier Cousin's hyper-natural wnes, Domaine Mosse from Anjou and many more. We decided to drink a Chablis from natural wine gurus Alice and Olivier de Moor whose wines have a clarity, poise and elegance that is truly amazing. We ordered the Chablis 'Bel Air et Clardy' and were delighted with our choice and how it matched beautifully with the food we tried.
De Moor Chablis 'Bel Air et Clardy'
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  De_Moor_Chablis

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The building looks sort of 1950s industrial as you approach

Approaching the Fiskebar

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The first dish was six succulent, meaty oysters that still tasted of the sea.

Danish oysters

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Razor clams looked stunning and tasted brilliant. The texture was remarkable.

Razor clams

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The bleak roe served with a wafer of strong bread was a stunning mix of tastes and textures.

Bleak roe

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A visual treat. A thin slice of celeriac enclosing brill and decorated with flowers and radishes. It tasted every bit as good as it looks.

Brill and celariac

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Danish cod was a complete main dish - cooked perfectly.

Danish cod

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The rhubarb dessert was a stunner. Flavour, flavour and then more flavour.

Rhubarb dessert at Fiskebar

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The rhubarb dessert - close up this time.

Rhubarb dessert at Fiskebar

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