Philippe Bornard | Natural wine | Philippe Bornard | Arbois | France Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Philippe Bornard HeartHeartHeart
Natural wine

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Country: France

Philippe Bornard lives in the quaint village of Pupillin which is quite close to Arbois near the Swiss border. Philippe inherited the vineyard from his father and decided to make wine himself rather than sell his grapes to others. He makes his wine in the winery under his house which overlooks the village.
The wines cover two appellations. The first is the broader Cotes du Jura but most of the wines are from the tiny Arbois Pupillin appellation which only applies to grapes grown in the commune of Pupillin. You will notice that in this appellation it is permitted to name the grape variety on the label - which is unusual for France.
His wines are fascinating. He has eighteen different cuvees and they are all remarkably different.
Les Chassagnes is a savoury white wine made from the Savagnin grape. Another Savagnin is the Les Marnes which has been oxidised in the barrel to develop nutty, savoury characterisitcs. His light, red wines made from Trousseau and Ploussard are delicious, as are his reds made from Pinot Noir. But the crowning glory is the Vin Jaune which has been left in barrel for over six years to concentrate and oxidise so that it turns yellow and develops sherry-like flavours.
We have enjoyed his delicious petillant naturel called Tant Mieux made from the Ploussard grape at Ma Peche in New York. You can also find his wines at many venues in Australia including another of David Chang's restaurants called Momofuku Sieobo is Sydney. Other Sydney venues include the Wine Library, 10 William Street, Love Tilly Devine and Felix. In Melbourne, Pei Modern is a good place to head as is Franklin in Hobart, Tasmania. In Paris the charming Philou in the 10th serves a wide range of his wines.
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