Le Repaire de Cartouche | Restaurant | Paris | France | Natural wine

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Le Repaire de Cartouche HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 47 00 25 86
Address: 8, bd des Filles-du-Calvaire
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Le Repaire de Cartouche is an excellent bistro serving great food and presenting an amazing wine list that has every superstar of the French natural wine movement listed.
We arrived early for our meal as there are no reservations here. We were promptly shown to a nice wooden table with a white cloth in the centre. We were presented with the extensive wine list including some daily specials to be served by the glass. We chose a 2005 Jurancon sec from Charles Hours and a glass of the stunning Crozes-Hermitage Blanc "Cuvee K" from Dard et Ribo. These were poured at the table quite promptly.
Then a complimentary bowl of moist rillettes were brought to the table along with a basket of strong bread. This was a very good start to the meal.
Our starters comprised a clever but very simple salad of five different types of seasonal tomatoes and a slab of jambon persille which was scattered with slices of gherkins and accompanied by a green salad of chives, spinach and parsley. Both of these dishes were simply presented but packed with flavour.
For our main dishes of chicken and pork we ordered a bottle of Le Mazel Cuvee Briand, a Vin de Pays de l'Ardèche from Gerald and Jocelyn Oustric. This silky Grenache went perfectly with the robust flavours of the dishes.
The chicken had been stewed in cream with five different types of carrots and the result was perfectly moist chicken that was lifted by the creaminess of the sauce. The pork was a huge rib that was served on spinach. It was tender and moist and had a great flavour.
Dessert saw an unmolded clafoutis (all the rage in Paris at present) and a dish of frais de bois with fromage blanc. The latter was a very, very good dessert - quite stunning, especially with the accompanying glass of sparkling Tout'En Bulle de Gramenon.
Note that they have recently converted the downstairs section into a wine bar.
Metro: Saint-Sébastien - Froissart or Oberkampf




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