Prune, a charming restaurant in New York: Review

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Review
 
Prune Heart
Restaurants and bars
New York
Open: Lunch and dinner daily
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +1 212 677 6221
Address: 54 E 1st St
New York, New York, 10003
Country: United States

Prune in New York is exactly the sort of restaurant that typifies what we keep searching for throughout the world. It is the quintessential small neighbourhood restaurant serving delicious food to a loyal clientele. It has a heart and a soul and no pretention.
You will find Prune in 1st St not too far from 1st Avenue. It is a small, yet charming space with closely-spaced tables, distressed mirrors, a bar and an open kitchen. The staff seem delighted to welcome you and eager to explain what is on the short, but interesting, menu.
We decided to try the oxtail, shitake and toasted barley soup and the spicy eggplant, fried salt cod and boiled egg for our first courses. The soup was deeply flavoured and hovered on the edge of that stickiness associated with reduced oxtail broth without falling too far on the sticky side. It was enough for the dish to be unctuous without being overpowering. The shitake and the roasted barley added textural and flavour interest.
The eggplant dish reminded us of the Middle East. The eggplant has been roasted to smokiness (a necessary step that many restaurants pull back from) so that a beautiful lingering smoke flavour haunted the entire dish. The salt cod was interesting but the eggplant was a star of its own and the egg provided a softness to counteract the spicy eggplant flavour. A lovely dish.
A Claude Riffault Sancerre and a Moraitis Sillogi from the Greek Paros Island offered by the glass complemented both of these dishes. The Riffault was an elegant Sancerre and the Maraitis was a mix of Monemvasia, Malagouzia and Asyrtiko grapes that combined to create a crisp, clean wine that was perfect with the eggplant.
The Grosjean Torrette from the Aosta Valley in northern Italy is a mix of the grapes Petit Rouge (80%) and the remainder being taken up with Vien de Nus, Doucet, Fumin and Mayolet.
 
     
     
     


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