Per Se, Thomas Keller's New York restaurant: Review

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Review
 
Per Se HeartHeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
New York
Open: Lunch Fri - Sun, dinner daily
Price: Expensive
Score (/20): 18

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +1 212 823 9335
Address: 10 Columbus Circle (Time Warner complex)
New York, New York
Country: United States

Per Se is Thomas Keller's New York incarnation. It is an elegant restaurant with elegant staff, great food and an amazing wine list. Yet, it is not at all stuffy or unapproachable. We found our meal here to be a relaxing, enjoyable experience assisted by friendly staff who went out of their way to ensure we had a perfect meal.
A brief review is provided below.
 
     
 

A meal at Per Se is as good as it gets - a complete experience where no individual dish dominated but everything was quite perfect, from the famous 'oysters and pearls' to some deceptively simple dishes that showed off delicious vegetables.

The extraordinary staff, who accommodated our every request with more than just tolerance, helped.

We chose the chef's tasting menu and the vegetarian menu, and with four people at the table were able to order both dishes where in some brackets there was a choice of two. In all, we tried about 20 dishes. These ones are our favourites from them all, and interestingly are mainly from the vegetarian tasting menu.

'Oysters and pearls' - Island Creek oysters (from Duxbury in nearby Massachusetts) and Sterling white sturgeon caviar (a farmed caviar) in a sabayon of pearl tapioca.

This apple 'canelloni', the cylinder just visible in the photo, was served with the sweetest of beets, sylvetta (a type of rocket), an apple 'chip' and toasted caraway seed infused cr? fraiche.

Also from the vegetarian menu, this was a slow poached Ameraucana hen egg with lentils du Puy, given body with root vegetables, dandelion greens and 'beurre rouge', served with a delicate brioche crouton (crouton was an understatement - it was quite ethereal).

Also from the vegetarian menu, a seasonal agnolotti, filled with Salvatore Bklyn ricotta (from Brooklyn, only a suburb away) served with glazed celeraic, crosnes (which the internet tells us is the small white tuber also known as Chinese artichoke) and celery, with a black truffle cream. (The truffle may not has been as local as some of the other ingredients but it worked well.)

And a delicious apple dessert.

 
     


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