Boulettes Larder: Review of a fine kitchen restaurant in San Francisco

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Review
 
Boulettes Larder HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
San Francisco
Open: Daily for breakfast and lunch
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +1 415 399 1155
Address: 1 Ferry Building
San Francisco, California, 94111
Country: United States

Boulettes Larder is a working kitchen with a few tables where you can sample the fare from the ever-changing menu of skilfully crafted food that is based on fresh local, market produce.
The model for the venue is to provide shoppers with a range of take-home dishes that simply need reheating or assembling. We saw roasted sardines, cooked haricot vert, stuffed quail, roasted pork, mullet bottarga, roasted beets, sunchoke puree and many other dishes that could be used to build an interesting meal with little fuss.
However, we wanted to eat in so we could watch the calm reassurance of the kitchen at work. We sat at the shared table right beside the open kitchen and enjoyed a soup made from Green Gulch Farm broccoli to which a bright swirl of lovage oil had been added at the last moment. We also tried the comforting salad where the speckled cos lettuce leaves were complemented by slices of fresh radish and beautiful slashes of cucumber.
We then moved on to two of the best dishes we have experienced for a while, simply because they were so thoughtful. Each ingredient had its place and nothing was on the plate that didn't need to be there. The first dish saw two large fillets of local Petrale Sole cooked perfectly in olive oil, sitting on curly kale and dressed with sancho peppercorns, dried Japanese seaweed, chili, yuzu zest and a couple of paper-thin slices of lemony citron. This was simply presented and delicious to eat. Perfect! Our other dish could easily be classified as one of the best sandwiches we have ever had. It was a pulled pork shoulder sandwich made from kurobuta pork shoulder which had been braised on a very low heat and seasoned with pimenton de la vera and accompanied by a purple potato salad. The pork was soft and unctuous and the bread was a perfect vehicle for holding the soft strands.
We finished with a professionally-perfect walnut tart (the pastry was very short) topped with coffee ice cream and surrounded by a swirl of persimmon honey glaze. The other was a poached pear accompanied by cinnamon ice cream (which showed very good control of this spice) topped with an Ossi dei Morti biscuit.
This is a revelatory food experience and a place where every food lover should feel immediately comfortable in. The larder does not sell wine, however they are happy to open your own bottle. We bought a bottle of Uvaggio Vermentino from the Napa Valley. It was a very good match, particularly for the soup and the fish.
We wanted to make sure that we had not been carried away by the moment so we decided on a return visit - this time for breakfast. The reaction we had to the restaurant and the food was exactly the same the second time. A dish of house-made yoghurt with fresh, ultra-ripe persimmon (one of the world's great treats) was sprinkled with fresh pistachio nuts and Japanese sugar. This was a perfect pick-me-up at the start of a long day. Our other dish was perfectly poached eggs with fresh black eye peas, some more of the lovely yoghurt and spiced brown butter and a sprinkling of green pepita and sesame seeds. A papadam was also served.
Once again we left very happy with Boulettes Larder as both a great venue and a great place for true foodies to seek out.
 
     
 

Photos for three of the dishes are shown below.

The Petrale Sole dish

Boulettes Larder Petrale Sole

The Pulled Pork Sandwich dish.

Boulettes Larder Pulled Pork Sandwich

The Poached Pear dish.

Boulettes Larder Pear Dessert
 
     


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