Khanom Jeen Thanon Suan Plu Noodles Bangkok Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Khanom Jeen Thanon Suan Phlu HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Location: 13.719583, 100.538328
Open: Mon - Sat 9am - 7pm
Price: Low

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Address: 433/6 Thanon Suan Phlu off Sathorn Rd
Country: Thailand

Khanom Jeen Thanon Suan Phlu is a small restaurant with just a few tables serving some of the best rice flour noodles in the city. These are thin, extruded noodles that are very difficult to make but are some of the tastiest in Asia. They make a great breakfast dish topped with a licking of a deeply tasty sauce and some condiments both fresh and pickled.
The tiny restaurant is in Thanon Suan Phlu which you find a few metres along from the large Shell service station in Thanon Sathon which is the large road where you find interesting hotels such as the Metropole, the Banyan Tree and the Sukhothai.
You will find this tiny gem on the left side of the road as you walk along Thanon Suan Phlu from Sathorn Street. You will walk past the entrance to Soi Suan Phlu 2 and 4 and then you will find Soi Suan Phlu 6 just a few metres before the open restaurant that is your goal. If you see the Suanplu market on the other side of the road you have gone too far.
There are a couple of large tables with the Khanom Jeen condiments set out so you should spot it easily enough. You will also see a number of gleaming stainless steel pots in the front corner with the sauces in them.
If the lady who owns the stall seems a little diffident at first, don't worry. She is only concerned because some dishes are quite hot ("spicy") and she is concerned that Westeners might find the flavours too strong. She becomes very friendly once that barrier is removed. She does speak a little English so you can ask which is the fish curry or which is the chicken curry.
They serve the delicious noodles with five interesting sauces. There is a strong fish intestine curry (ask for gaeng tai plaa which roughly translates as "curry insides fish") that is our favourite. This is a standout with great depth of flavour and which lingers long on the palate. From watching the locals who were placing their orders it seems that it is a clear favourite of everyone. There is also a mild fish ball in coconut curry (namya plaa), and a classic green chicken curry (gaeng kiaow wan gai). We like them all.
You sit at one of the shared tables which are covered in small bowl of 'extras' that you add to your khanom jeen plate (you might like to thoroughly mix the noodles and sauce first to make sure they are nicely coated. There are beautiful herbs, lovely pickles and lots of chopped vegetables. Make sure you add a selection of these condiments and also take a boiled egg (which costs extra). Chop the egg up and distribute it through the noodles for a further refinement.
And this beautiful breakfast that has been cooked with such skill will set you back around 40 baht which is the princely sum of US$1.
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