Italian Restaurant in Paris, France: Il Cortile

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Review
 
Il Cortile
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Price: Expensive
Score (/20): 15.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 44 58 45 67
Address: 33-37 rue Cambon
Paris, 75001
Country: France
Food Style: Italian

Our review of this restaurant was conducted quite a few years ago. It should be treated as of historical interest only.
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There is nothing strange about there being an Italian restaurant in Paris. There are Italian restaurants in most cities in the world. What is remarkable about this classy place in the rue Cambon is that it is supervised by France's leading chef.
Walking in to the restaurant your eyes are immediately drawn to the Italian tiles boldly on display. Then you see the avant-garde flower pots complete with butterfly!
But it is the food that really draws the furrowed-browed business people, wide-eyed tourists and contemplative foodies.
We ordered vitello tonnato and scallop carpaccio. The vitello was layered with a beautifully light mayonnaise studded with raw celery and fennel. Six caperberries (from Lipari) were scattered on the plate. A lovely dish.
The carpaccio was presented simply. Wafer thin slices of scallops with little mounds of caviar were lifted with a light olive oil and some added lemon juice. A robust bread accompanied these dishes.
We have become interested in the wines of southern Italy. In fact our interest in these wines has been increasing at the same rate as the increase in price of Tuscan wines!
We were therefore pleased to see a fine example of the wine of the Campania region, namely the Mastroberardino Fiano di Avellino. The delicate, vegetal character of this wine was perfect with the starters.
For main course we tried the grilled sea bass with a Barolo sauce. This combination of red wine sauce with fish is perfect if done well. It was. The other dish was lamb served with a Sicilian-inspired eggplant accompaniment.
Three tiny pannacotta (cassis, caramel and vanilla and lemon) were nicely executed and the Douceur au marrons de Cuneo did justice to the birthplace of the chestnuts.
The service was very attentive and the coffee that followed our meal was perfectly brewed Illy Café.
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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