Seafood Restaurant in Cap d'Antibes, France: Restaurant de Bacon

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Review
 
Restaurant de Bacon HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Nice
Price: Expensive
Score (/20): 16

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 4 93 61 50 02
Address: Bd de Bacon
Cap d'Antibes, Provence
Country: France
Food Style: Seafood

Our pilgrimage to Restaurant de Bacon didn't start well. We were in Singapore when we got word that they would not be open on the day we had booked. This may not sound like a big deal, but when you plan your eating trips with all the precision of a major military operation, when every hour of every day has been pre-planned to ensure maximum coverage of bars, markets, wineries, restaurants, hotels and shops, any slight hiccup has major ripple effects!
A rapid exchange of faxes established that while lunch on Tuesday was out of the question, Thursday was OK. A quick call to Restaurant at Hostellerie de l'abbaye de la Celle and to La Bastide de Moustiers and our itinerary was reversed. The anchor was dinner at Louis XV in Monte Carlo. This we weren't going to change.
The drive from Moustiers-Sainte-Marie through the Verdun gorge was magical. March snow was still lingering on the mountains. The air was crystal clear and the sun was pretending to do a good job.
As we drove through the posh residential areas of Cap d'Antibes our mind was on one thing - bouillabaisse! We had come here to sample the real thing - or as close to the real thing as you can get for a recipe that has a variation for every chef.
The restaurant itself looks like any other house in the boulevard. What makes it different is the huge, glass fish display near the entrance - kinky but appealing.
Inside there are more fish, more glass - in fact it is a major feature of the décor. Cool white walls, cool white tablecloths, large windows and well-spaced tables immediately provide a feeling of relaxation and comfort. Our fellow diners were predominantly locals of comfortable means. Some tourists were plainly evident.
If we weren't at ease already, the welcome certainly sealed the mood. A friendly, open and apologetic greeting immediately addressed the bungle with the booking and a glass of champagne appeared as a further apology. We hasten to add that because of the strict policy of the foodtourist.com Web site we had given no indication of our ulterior motive. Nor were they aware.
We wanted everything on the menu. Our waiter looked tentative as we ordered starters. When we then ordered the bouillabaisse he wisely suggested that we drop the first courses and concentrate on the main game. We concurred.
Our minds then turned to the wine. We have long been fans of the wines of the Provence region. They are some of the most underrated in the world. They are also a perfect (unsurprisingly) match for the food of the area. We were interested in the small appellations immediately behind the city of Nice, so we ventured the suggestion of a Chateau de Bellet Cuvee Baron G. The sommelier agreed that this would be the perfect accompaniment.
As we sipped our champagne and nibbled on good, strong bread rolls, our eyes wandered to the mountains behind the stunning vista of Nice. This is where we had been driving only an hour before.
A platter of five different types of fish, including the absolutely essential rascasse, was brought to the table for our approval. We were able to see the shiny eyes and the pert scales of fish that had only recently made the supreme sacrifice.
While the cooking commenced, little crusty starters appeared - one topped with olives and one with anchovies. The salt and the Bellet were a nice contrast.
And then came the main event. The soup was served in a bowl and the fish had been retrieved from the cauldron and the flesh was served separately. Rouille and garlic cloves and croutons appeared.
It was all as good as we had hoped. Restaurant de Bacon really does make one of the best bouillabaisse dishes on the planet!
We kept eating and eating. The flavour of the soup was exceptional. The fish were perfect. The rouille added depth. The garlic was enticing. The croutons added texture. This was so good!
We left feeling that the experience had been very special. One of the best locations in the world. Efficient and very caring service. Some seriously good produce enhanced by skilful cooking. What more can we say but - go there!
 
     
     
     


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