French Restaurant in London, United Kingdom: Restaurant Gordon Ramsay Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Restaurant Gordon Ramsay
Restaurants and bars
Open: Dinner Mon - Fri
Price: Expensive

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 020 7352 4441
Address: 68 Royal Hospital Road
London, SW3 4HP
Country: United Kingdom
Food Style: French

This review of Restaurant Gordon Ramsay was written before he acquired stardom. The meal we describe here was cooked by him. It was memorable. However, we need to point out that Gordon is now spread very thinly and the meal we had may be quite different to the meal you are presented. He is unlikely to be in the kitchen. Read our review to see what you can aspire to!
We booked to go to Gordon Ramsay before we knew about the Boiling Point television program. Had we seen that first we probably would have chosen to go elsewhere. Having seen the appalling behaviour of the chef/owner on this program, we were worried that his temperament might mean a disappointing meal on the night.
We needn't have worried. From the moment we walked through the door the impeccable service and calm professionalism exhibited by the staff helped make the evening one to remember.
We had to wait some time, as friends who were joining us were unavoidably detained. It did not matter. The staff were anxious to ensure that we were comfortable and that we had a glass of champagne to sip on while we perused the menu.
When we finally placed our order and the food started to arrive, we realised that we were in a world-class restaurant. And this was before it gained its third star.
A salad of crispy pigs trotters with calf sweetbreads was an absolutely stunning way to start the meal. This careful construction of flavour and texture contrasts saw three crispy cylinders of pigs trotters stuffed with sweetbreads and supported by a perfectly-made celeriac remoulade. One of the cylinders was topped with a fried quail egg to provide even more contrast.
And if this dish was perfect from the texture and flavour perspective our other starter was a visual delight as well. A large glass plate was lined with a perfectly formed rectangle of 'fig carpaccio'. Overlaying the top right corner of the rectangle was a mosaique of pheasant, partridge, venison, pigeon and foie gras. This was an interesting arrangement that perhaps did not reach the same heights as a pigeon and artichoke version we had tried at Alain Ducasse in Paris, but it was still very good.
The main courses were cooked with great skill. A grilled fillet of red mullet (one of our favourite fish) sat on an eggplant and ratatouille base and was lifted by a basil vinaigrette.
A canon of lamb wrapped around spinach and served with flair and centre height was also cooked with skill and packed with flavour. A thyme jus enhanced rather than dominated the meat.
If we thought that the meal was nearly over we were wrong! A pannacotta adorned with a bright red star arrived at the table, then an ice cream cone, then a clever, unmoulded creme brulee surrounded by slices of candied apple and then a trio of orange desserts including a mini-souffle. And if this wasn't enough we were then regaled with dozens of petit fours until we had to cry enough!
The wine list was good, without being over the top and was supported by a friendly and helpful sommelier.
Overall this was a great meal in a nice restaurant - and we didn't hear anything being thrown around the kitchen!
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