Restaurant, Longrain, Surry Hills, Australia, Thai Martin Boetz Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Restaurants and bars
Open: Lunch and dinner Mon - Sat
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +61 2 9280 2888
Address: 85 Commonwealth St
Surry Hills, New South Wales, 2010
Country: Australia
Food Style: Thai

The food presented to us at Longrain in Sydney is always exciting, interesting and well-balanced.
We walked in to the large, warehouse-like space over polished wooden floors to one of the three large, wide tables that provide the main seating. A bar and side tables provide more in the main room.
We started with a warm salad of tea smoked oysters with chilli jam deep and fried garlic and the traditional betel leaves topped with shredded chicken and smoked chilli, tomato and garlic relish. Both dishes were beautifully executed.
Because we are weak-willed we allowed the waiter to talk us into the duck and shiitake dumpling soup as a third main dish to share. We were glad he did because the broth had a lovely depth of flavour and the dumplings were silky and sumptuous. This was followed by a dish of steamed fish with cabbage and Chinese broccoli that was light and a good foil to the braised beef shin that was rich and unctuous and utterly lovely.
We continue to visit Longrain because it quickly established itself as an integral part of the Sydney dining scene.
On another visit we again tried the betel leaves, but this time they were done with smoked trout, crispy garlic, galangal and trout roe. They were just as successful as on our first visit. Similarly a dish of steamed whole snapper was very satisfying, and the sauce made from yellowbean and ginger complemented the delicate fish perfectly. We finished with a red curry of spatchcock. It was quite mild but very flavourful. A Metier 1999 Viognier was a good accompaniment to the meal.
We have been back a number of times since, both for a drink and snacks in the bar area or for lunch or dinner. Every time we have left well satisfied with our experience.
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