Modern Chinese Restaurant in Kowloon, Hong Kong: Hutong Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Hutong Heart
Restaurants and bars
Hong Kong
Open: Lunch and dinner daily
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 852 3428 8342
Address: 28th Floor, One Peking Road
Country: Hong Kong
Food Style: Modern Chinese

We have visited Hutong Restaurant regularly. We were somewhat ambivalent about whether to revisit Hutong after our first visit even though we loved it. . We rarely find great views and great food together, and Hutong has some of the best views you can imagine. There are sweeping vistas of Hong Kong's famous harbour. You can even watch the helicopters landing on the roof of the nearby Peninsula Hotel.
After securing a window table we settled in to peruse the menu while sipping a glass of the excellent Fontanafredda La Selezione Gavi di Gavi from Piedmont.
When the first dish arrived, any unease that we felt about coming here immediately vanished. Bamboo clams that had been poached in Chinese wine and then served with a chili padi mix was one of the best treatments of this difficult bivalve that we have ever experienced. Bamboo clams, by the way, is a name used in Asia to refer to razor clams or ambal as they are called in Malaysia. They are difficult to cook because the chef has only a few seconds between when they are inedible because they are undercooked to when they are inedible because they are overcooked! Here they were soft and succulent and soaked up the chilli juices to achieve a flavour that was amazing.
The next dish was equally fascinating and close to perfection. It was a salad of 'pigs throat' with marinated scallions and large quantities of coriander. The pieces of aesophagus studded though the salad were very tender, once again displaying the skill of the chef. Both these dishes were a good foil for the richness of the white wine.
And just as we were thinking that it couldn't get any better, along came a dish of pigeon, complete with head, that had been poached in a white pepper broth. The pale, white broth sang of the poaching spices and the flesh of the pigeon was as tender as any we have eaten.
This was followed by mandarin fish fillets that were completely buried in a mound of very addictive crispy yellow bean and peanut topping. We accompanied this dish with a dish described as wok-fried jade which turned out to be green bamboo shoots - they were delicious.
As to the question of whether the dishes were authentic representations of traditional Chinese dishes, the answer is we don't care. They were lively, modern dishes with many traditional elements reinterpreted in a clever way and with very satisfying results, in much the same way that Jereme Leung is treating traditional dishes at his Wamphoa Club in Shanghai.
This was not just a good meal, this was a great meal and we look forward to returning to try more of the wonderful dishes.
Review: November 2006
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