Baker of pissaladiere in Vieil Antibes: Jean-Paul Veziano Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Jean-Paul Veziano Heart
Food store

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 04 93 34 05 46
Address: 2 rue de la Pompe (Vieil Antibes)
Antibes, Provence
Country: France

Pissaladière is a simple tart which is emblematic of Provencal cuisine. It also is the embodiment of another problem which exists, namely the loss of elements of the traditional cuisine. To understand what we mean here you must also understand the derivation of this dish.
The tart is not a derivation of pizza as so many writers would have you believe! It derives from the Provencal word pissala or pissalat which describes a richly-flavoured paste made from the salting and subsequent fermentation of tiny anchovy-like fish caught off the coast of Nice.
Over the years, short cuts have begun to be taken and the prized pissala has been replace by anchovy fillets and the origins of this simple yet alluring dish have become lost.
So, is it possible to experience authentic examples of this famous dish? In our criss-crossing of the province we were beginning to get depressed about our chances of finding the genuine article until we made a visit to the old port of Antibes.
As we approached the Saturday market we saw a sign to this baker and looking through the window we could see the slices of pissaladière with the characteristic slate-blue topping that strongly suggested that this was the real deal. Sure enough, on entering the store and enquiring further they assured us that Mr Veziano still makes his pissaladière in the traditional way.
We loved it!
You can also buy other local specialties such as torte de blette, the famous sweet tart based on Swiss chard.
Jean-Paul Veziano at rue de la Pompe (Vieil Antibes)
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