Cookbook review Flavours of the Riviera by Colman Andrews recipe Nice Liguria Genoa Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Flavors of the Riviera by Colman Andrews HeartHeart

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Address: Provence
Country: France
Food Style: Mediterranean

Flavors of the Riviera by Colman Andrews is a fascinating survey of the food of the regions of Italy and France from the Ligurian Coast to the Cote d'Azure.
When Colman Andrews decides to tackle a food topic he does so with a thoroughness that is commendable. He has an uncanny ability to locate the 'right' people to help him understand the local cuisine and local produce.
So, when he is in Nice he relies on two perfect authorities - Franck Cerutti (who turns out such wonderful food at Louis XV in Monaco) and Jacques Médecin the disgraced former mayor of Nice whose book La cuisine du comté de Nice is a classic on authentic Niçoise cuisine. In Genoa he unearthed a gold mine of local authorities on the history of the region's food.
So, whether it is a recipe for ratatouille or Ligurian gnocchi, the approach is thoughtful, meticulously researched and delicious! His dissertations on authenticity are compelling reading and his ability to weave his way through often contradictory techniques and approaches is commendable. Only a master diplomat could approach the minefield of the components of a Niçoise salad and come out the other side in one piece!
See also the review of his wonderful book on Catalan cuisine.
Publisher: Grub Street
Year: 2000
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