Modern Australian Restaurant in Sydney, Australia: Est. Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Est. HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Open: Lunch Mon - Fri, dinner Mon - Sat
Price: Expensive

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +61 2 9240 3010
Address: Level 1, 252 George St
Sydney, New South Wales, 2000
Country: Australia
Food Style: Modern Australian

The high-ceilings in the large room upstairs from the ever-popular Establishment bar in Sydney's George Street is a perfect showcase for the refined food turned out of the kitchen here.
When you arrive you sink into comfortable chairs or banquettes and very quickly you are put at ease by the very professional wait staff.
The type of food served here is exactly the sort of food we love in a Sydney restaurant. Intelligent, clever yet rooted in classical technique and without too many competing flavours on the plate.
For example, we loved a chilled summer Roma clear tomato consommé with squid, scampi, Japanese togarashi and basil because of the clean, clear, intense flavours.
The seafood theme was continued to a ravioli of prawns on snowpeas, lemongrass and shellfish vinaigrette which saw a plump raviolo swimming beside some cheeks of perfect tomato and thinly slivered snowpeas.
Main courses of pigeon and roasted lamb rib eye were good and perfectly executed except for some foie gras with the pigeon which was sub-standard. Nevertheless, the dishes were so good that this was a quibble.
To finish a perfect grilled peach accompanied by a Muscat de Beaume de Venise was a great way to round out the meal.
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