Ellsworth | Restaurant | Natural wine | Paris | France

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Review
 
Ellsworth
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 42 60 59 66
Address: 34 rue de Richelieu
Paris, 75001
Country: France

Ellsworth is a pleasant small restaurant in Paris serving small plate dishes designed for sharing. The food is cooked with precision and flair and the wines are mainly natural. The restaurant is an offshoot from nearby veteran Verjus.
Good solid bread was brought to the table which proved invaluable in soaking up some very nice juices that were part of the forthcoming dishes.
Sautéed green beans, white bean hummus, sesame and sourdough bread crumbs was the description of the first dish. This is the type of dish we love where vegetables are the hero! Here it was flavoursome thin, green beans resting on a bed of white bean hummus and topped with a sprinkling of very good sourdough crumbs that had been toasted to perfection.
It was a great start to the meal and absolutely sang with the accompanying Aligoter from Alice and Olivier de Moor. This lively, fresh white wine made from the Aligoté grape is a crisp, clean, lively wine that has been naturally fermented and has seen no chemical sprays in the vineyard.
Fried clams with creamed corn, pickled chilies and lemon and basil was what the menu said and what the kitchen delivered. This was a very pleasant dish with the fried clams being coated with breadcrumbs and then cooked till the point where the coating was crisp and the clams still succulent and juicy. The creamed corn added crunch and freshness to the dish.
Merlan, heirloom tomatoes, celery, radish and brown butter was the description of the next dish. The fish that the French call merlan is the same fish as the British call whiting. Two large fillets of whiting were served on a bed of chopped heirloom tomatoes, pieces of celery and finely sliced radishes. The juices from the tomatoes bled into the butter sauce creating a nice visual effect and added flavour to the juices.
Sautéed green beans, white bean hummus, sesame and sourdough bread crumbs was the description of the first dish. This is the type of dish we love where vegetables are the hero! Here it was flavoursome thin, green beans resting on a bed of white bean hummus and topped with a sprinkling of very good sourdough crumbs that had been toasted to perfection. It was a great start to the meal and absolutely sang with the accompanying Aligoter from Alice and Olivier de Moor. This lively, fresh white wine made from the Aligoté grape is a crisp, clean, lively wine that has been naturally fermented and has seen no chemical sprays in the vineyard.
Which brings us to the wine list. It is, of course, mainly populated with natural wines. However there is a wide range of natural wines from the clean and pure to the highly experimental. The wine list here tends towards the former with wines from Belliviere in the Coteaux de Loire and Domaine Huet from Vouvray and Yves Culleron from Cote-Rotie. However there are a few surprises with one of the white wines served by the glass being the Ardeche white from Andrea Calek and two red offerings from Francois Saint-Lo from the Loire.
Buttermilk fried chicken, Napa cabbage, Dijon vinaigrette is the signature dish of the restaurant. The batter was beautifully cooked, the boneless chicken was cooked well but the meat lacked flavour somewhat compared to a similar dish we had cooked Korean style at Hero the next day where the chicken had been cooked on the bone.
Beef tongue salad, baby corn, cucumber, mint, basil and peanuts came next and was a very pleasant dish. The tongue was exceptionally tender, young tender corn cobs had been thinly sliced vertically, and the cucumber, mint and basil, together with the accompanying sauce gave a mild Asian flavour to the dish.
Pork meatballs, olives, yoghurt, confit garlic, mint and harissa was the final dish. The yoghurt did the heavy lifting for the sauce and the meat balls were very tender.
Overall this was a very good meal with some nice wine to accompany the food and service that was mostly in control.
 
     
     
     


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