Café Sillon | Modern Restaurant | Lyon | France | Natural wine

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Review
 
Café Sillon HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Lyon
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Station: Saxe-Gambetta
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 4 78 72 09 73
Address: 46 avenue Jean Jaures
Lyon, 69
Country: France

Café Sillon is a welcome addition to the vibrant Lyon dining scene. It is not too formal yet the staff are quite serious about what they are trying to achieve. The food is modern without being too far in front of the curve and the wine list has plenty of natural wines to satisfy the needs of their clients. We loved this place from the moment we walked in.
The walls are painted a deep blue and the room is fairly sparse with uncovered wooden tables, Bentwood chairs, a bar area that also seats a few customers on high, backless stools and lots of interesting reading material including back copies of the delightful Fool magazine.
The reasonably-priced menu is brief with two choices of entrée, main course and dessert. We simply ordered each of the dishes and shared them.
The wine list is also relatively brief with a smattering of interesting wines from natural producers such as Jean-Philippe Padie from the Languedoc, Dominique Belluard from the Savoie, Henri Milan from Provence and Jean-Francois Ganevat from the Jura. Because white Jura wines seem to go with just about any dish we ordered the Cuvee Oregane from Ganevat which is a blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin that was fermented naturally and has had no sulphur added at any time during the vinification or at bottling.
A complimentary dish of a delicate mousse with slices of carrot, fresh herbs and pieces of walnut started the meal and was very, very tasty.
The next two dishes to arrive at the table were "Parmesan, fenouil et petite poissons" and "Poulpe grille au barbecue, prunes, navets, lard d'Arnad, piment et sauge".
The first of these saw thinly shaved fennel scattered over tiny, battered, deep-fried whole fish along with some cured pieces of sardines. In the centre was a scoop of delicious Parmesan cream which bound all the disparate elements together. A lovely dish.
The other dish saw grilled octopus with slices of radish and whole baby turnips, green prunes and some sage leaves sitting in a delicate broth. Once again, the flavours were bright and the elements worked very well together. We also noted the perfect seasoning of this dish. There was some serious cooking going on here!
The main dishes were "Barbue, haricots, poireaux, girolles et beurre fume" and "Agneau, pomme de terre, chicoree, olives et agrumes". The fish dish (barbue) which is related to Turbot and is usually called Brill in English was cooked perfectly and presented in a bean stew which was studded with girolle mushrooms and leeks. The lamb was served with braised and fried potatoes and leaves of radicchio sitting in a citrus and olive sauce. This went very well with the cheekily named Milan Grand Ordinaire from Henri Milan which is a blend of five grape varieties, namely Grenache, Shiraz, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Desserts were "Chocolat blanc, framboises et oseille sauvage" and "Tomate verte, reglisse, riz noir et orties" and featured a clever blend of sweet and savoury ingredients. The promised raspberries were made into a deep red ice cream with a layer of white chocolate separating it from three leaves of wild sorrel which had been dusted with powdered sugar. Very nice, as the acid in the sorrel tempered the sweetness of the other ingredients. The green tomatoes had also been turned into a sorbet wedged between two, almost transparent rice crackers and some liquorice. This was a great finish to an exciting meal.
 
     
     
     


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