Saturne | Restaurant | Sven Chartier | Natural wine | Paris | France

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Review
 
Saturne HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Open: Lunch, dinner Mon - Fri
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 16.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 01 42 60 31 90
Address: 17 Rue Notre-Dame des Victoires
Paris, 75002
Country: France

Saturne has become one of our favourite restaurants in Paris due to Sven Chartier's wonderful food and Ewan Lemoigne's great selection of edgy, natural wines.
We decided to start our most recent meal with a current favourite producer namely Le Petit Domaine de Gimios when we saw their Muscat Sec des Roumanis on the wine list. This producer certainly knows how to deal with this difficult grape. It turned out to be a very good choice because it matched the first three dishes admirably. We also enjoyed the l'O2 Vigne from Domaine La Coulee d’Ambrosia in the Loire Valley which was a lovely Chenin Blanc with extended skin contact.
The meal started with 'tomate, olive noir' which turned out to be a gazpacho of yellow tomatoes topped with a scoop of frozen foie gras and sprinkled with dried black olives. This dish packed a lot of flavour and was visually interesting as well. The tomatoes that had been used for the soup were of the highest quality.
Next was 'huitre speciale, betterave, poire' which saw an off-centre arrangement of two very fresh oysters topped with coils of beetroot which were in turn scattered with fresh cress leaves.
The seafood theme was continued to the next course which was described on the menu as 'tourteau, miel & moutarde'. This turned out to be a long cigar-shaped roll of crab topped with herbs and mustard seeds and surrounded by a pool of honey-based sauce. This was a lovely flavour and very nice presentation.
And then came more seafood with 'poitrine de thon rouge, bouillon d'algue fume'. The tuna pieces were swimming in a very fine smoked seaweed broth that was both unctuous and stunningly delicious.
Next came 'pigeonneau au sarment, grand roux au sang'. This was a superb dish with beautifully cooked pink pigeon pieces sitting atop a thick roux of blood-soaked polenta and draped with cabbage.
We were now into dessert courses and the first was 'fraise, faisselle de chevre, concombre' which was a scoop of goat cheese ice cream accompanied by berries and a cucumber foam that worked very well, especially when eaten in conjunction with some parsley crumbs which were scattered on the plate.
The final dessert was 'chocolat, figue, foin' which saw the hay being infused in milk and then being turned into a lovely soft ice cream served with pieces of sweet, ripe figs and nibs of chocolate. This was a remarkable dish that demonstrated, once again, the virtuosity of the chef.
Saturne is well worth a visit. The food is very, very good, the service is excellent and very professional and the wine list is worth the journey.
 
     
   
     


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