Le Dauphin | Restaurant | Natural wine | Inaki Aizpitarte | Paris

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Review
 
Le Dauphin Heart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.869505,2.371215
Open: Lunch Tue - Fri; dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 55 28 78 88
Address: 131, avenue Parmentier
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Le Dauphin is another venture for Paris icon Inaki Aizpitarte nearly next door to his impossibly hip Le Chateaubriand. Like his original restaurant the wine list is very natural, however the food makes more of a nod towards the French classics hence we find the food more satisfying here.
The wine list is very natural with offering such as the Lassaigne Champagne (Brut Blanc de Blancs), the Bugey Cerdon Methode Ancestrale from Philippe Bottex of Bugey Cerdon, the Terre Blanche from up-and-coming Noella Morantin of the Loire, the sophisticated Initials BB from Chenin Blanc master Rene Mosse, the elegant Le Feu from Domaine Belluard in the Savoie, the Jura BB1 from Ludwig Bindernagel, the Reflets from biodynamic guru Thierry Michon of Domaine St Nicolas in the Fiefs Vendéens appellation, the Passetoutgrain from the delightful Fanny Sabre as well as offerings from Thierry Puzelat, Antoine Arena, Yvon Metras, Chateau Meylet, Dard & Ribo, Philippe Pacalet, Prieure Roch and Fred Cossard.
The food is basically small plates that are very reasonably priced. A salade d'artichauts poivrade saw some very fresh and perfectly prepared artichokes served in a white bowl with a fabulous dressing. Equally interesting was a soup called veloute d'orties, anguille fumee & faiselle de chevre. The nettle soup was a vibrant green and worked beautifully with the smoked eel which, in turn, was tamed by the goat cheese. A dish of milk fed lamb with peas and carrots was perfectly cooked and represented amazing value for money.
But the piece de resistance was a 'Glace au lait ribot'! This buttermilk ice cream was silky, suave, sexy and sublime! The texture was amazing, the flavour deep and the presentation perfect. This was one of the best desserts we have experienced in the past twelve months.
This is a place to put on your 'must visit' list for the next time you are in Paris.
 
     
 

 


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