Septime | Bertrand Grebaut | Restaurant | Paris | Natural wine

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Review
 
Septime HeartHeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.853633,2.380546
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Fri, dinner Sat
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 01 43 67 38 29
Address: 80 rue de Charonne
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Septime is a lovely restaurant in a quirky space in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. Here produce is king and the chef has the confidence not to contort the food to be what it isn't. Rather he adds touches and twists that help the produce to reveal more of itself to the diner. Deft choices of sauces or inspired combinations of flavours enhance the food rather than masking it here. Chef Bertrand Grebaut is certainly a chef of the moment!
The space is interesting, almost rustic in a NOMA sort of way. The wine list is a careful compilation of the most interesting natural wines from France and Italy (and beyond) with even rare and obscure wines such as the Belluard Le Feu being available. And finally, the waiting staff are efficient, friendly, knowledgeable and very welcoming.
There are lunchtime menus for an incredible bargain for day time eating. And for dinner the price goes up but is still very reasonable considering the quality of the food.
We started one meal with scallops which had been sliced and served with pumpkin, sea urchin roe, mandarin and fresh herbs all sprinkled with a very lovely powder that was similar to the texture of bottarga. This was a very good start to the meal.
The next dish was trout with leeks, lemon slices and spinach this time the texture came from pistachio crumbs. Then on to lamb and potato with cabbage and herbs along with tiny Brussel sprouts.
We have revisited Septime on a number of occasions since that first meal and have always enjoyed every dish we were served.
Our most recent meal was a lunch in the depths of winter with snow carpeting the streets, roofs, cars, motorbikes and awnings of the city. We were therefore glad to sit through a long lunch as a refuge from the cold outside.
The food we were served was even more interesting than on our previous visits. It just keeps on evolving in a good way. It was more pared back to enable diners to concentrate of the essence of the main ingredients. We got the feeling that the entire kitchen team is at the the top of their game turning out food that is both viually appealling and totally delicious.
This was certainly the case with a dish of oysters swimming in an intense vegetable broth enhanced with citrus and coffee essence.
The next dish went to an even higher level with an endive that was bursting with flavour being enhanced with small rods of Bigorre ham and a delicious mussel sauce.
But the highlight of the meal came at the end with a Basque maize porridge with candied walnuts coated with a light-as-air sabayon that was both stunning and deeply satisfying.
We were entranced with our meal!
 
     
 

Septime menu header

Oysters in broth

Endive with mussel sauce

 

 

 
     


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