Vivant Table | Natural wines | Paris

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Review
 
Vivant Table HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.873898, 2.349881
Open: Lunch and dinner Mon - Fri
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 42 46 43 55
Address: 43 rue des Petites Ecuries
Paris, 75010
Country: France

Pierre Jancou has now sold this lovely restaurant but Vivant Table is still buzzing! The food is very good and very reasonably priced, the wines are a selection of the best natural offerings from France and Italy and the service is friendly and efficient - what more could you ask for?
The setting is important. The bar a vins is in the 10th near the Canal St Martin (only 10 minutes walk from Verre Vole) is a tiny space bedecked with the most beautiful wall tiles you can imagine, the produce of a previous incarnation as a shop selling birds.
The food is very simple but that is a superficial assessment. It relies on the best and freshest ingredients that have either been cooked or assembled with care and precision. Take the burrata for example. We thoroughly enjoyed an entrée of the freshest, most alive cheese served simply with capers, sun-dried tomatoes and olive oil. Nothing else was necessary.
A similarly simple yet sublime dish was the boudin noir with tiny beetroot. For main courses a dish of 26 week old chicken served with Racines vegetables was perfectly simple and perfectly delicious as was a dish of rolled lamb, cooked pink and served on deeply flavoured smoky eggplant puree.
Three desserts were offered on the night we were there including the ultimate in simplicity - some 28 month old Parmesan served with a drizzle of honey - perfect!
The wines did not disappoint either. The new owners have kept a fine selection of natural wines and offer an interesting selection of producers including some of the most radical. But we always discover new treasures here. This time we were surprised to find a dry wine sourced from the island of Pantelleria which lies between Sicily and the African coast. We have long been fans of the sweet wines from here but hadn't tried the biodynamic Giotto Bini Muscat sec di Pantelleria 2009 which is vinified as a dry wine. It was interesting, full of flavour and worked nicely with the burrata. Also of much interest to the group assembled was the Castex Tir a Blanc white from Domaine Casot des Mailloles (Alain Castex and Ghislaine Magnier) from Collioure in the south west of France. This delicate wine is made from Grenache Blanc and Macabeu and nothing is added at any stage - not even any sulphur. With the lamb and the chicken a pure savoury Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire Gamay from Prieure Roch was a perfect match.
So, Vivant Table is a fine place to have an interesting meal and some great natural wines.
Metro: Strasbourg-Saint-Denis
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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