Autour d'Un Cep | Restaurant | Angers | Natural wines | France Restaurants, Wine, Travel, Opinions

Autour d'Un Cep
Restaurants and bars
Location: 47.472253, -0.556891
Open: Lunch Tue - Fri, dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 2 41 42 61 00
Address: 9 rue Boudriere
Angers, 49100
Country: France

Autour d'Un Cep is a pleasant restaurant in Angers in France's Loire Valley serving beautifully cooked food and a great selection of natural wines.
The meal started with an amuse bouche of a parmesan biscuit with a sardine pate and tiny slices of roast red pepper. The biscuit was nicely made with a generous proportion of butter and the sardine pate was full of flavour.
The food is cooked with skill and the underlying produce is of a very good standard. We started our meal with "Veloute d'asperges, noisettes" and "Rouget de roche, crème de carrots jus epice". The asparagus soup was beautifully made and was topped with two white asparagus spears and a slice of toast as well as some tiny, vibrant green fava beans. This was a very satisfying dish. The dish of rouget saw one blade of this succulent fish served with two spears of perfectly-cooked green asparagus and a nicely spiced carrot cream supplemented by a tiny, perfectly dressed green salad.
There were many wines to choose from with a strong line-up of natural wines from the region and beyond (such as the hard-to-find Ayse wines of Domaine Belluard). For example, the luscious Haut des Clous, a pure Chenin from biodynamic guru Thierry Michon headed a list of white from the region which also included iconic offerings such as the Clos de la Bergerie from Nicolas Joly and a ten year old Muscadet from Jo Landron. We have noticed this more often recently, reflecting the maturity of the natural wine movement, that older vintages are increasingly available. We finally decided on the Landron because the opportunity to try a ten year old natural Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie doesn't arise every day. It was a great wine and still very fresh but with additional complexity that comes from the aging process.
Main courses were "filet de canette, polenta, petits legumes nouveaux, jus" and "Dos de brochet, fenouil, pommes de terre roties, sauce hollandaise". For the duck we were presented with a Goyon-Chazeau knife from Laguiole. The duck was cooked to our liking and the knife didn't get too much of a work out due to the tenderness of the meat. The rectangle of polenta soaked up the flavoursome juices. The fish was a variety similar to pike caught upstream in the Maine river that runs through Angers. It teamed nicely with the fennel, onions and potato which accompanied the dish.
With the main courses we tried the Enfant Sauvage 2007 a Vin de Pays des Cotes Catalanes from Nikolaus and Carolin Bantlin of Domaine Les Enfants Sauvages. This wine exhibited the ripe characteristics of the south and perhaps needed more elegance to properly show off the Grenache and Carignan. For the fish we still had some Muscadet left!
Desserts were "Barre caramel-chocolat" and "Sable fraise-rhubarbe". The Barre was a very rich cake served on a very rich layer of caramel and chocolate. The sable was perfectly cooked and topped with poached rhubarb and fresh strawberries. A good way to end the meal.
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