Marlow & Sons | Restaurant | Natural wines | Williamsburg | Brooklyn

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Review
 
Marlow & Sons Heart
Restaurants and bars
New York
Location: 40.710591,-73.965827
Open: Breakfast, lunch and dinner daily
Price: Monday
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +1 718 384 1441
Address: 81 Broadway
Williamsburg, New York, 11211
Country: United States

Marlow & Sons is a cosy, crowded and charming restaurant crouching below the Williamsburg Bridge. The food is cooked with skill, the service is friendly and professional and the wine list is a roll call of the best natural winemakers in France.
There are no reservations at this restaurant.
The room is like walking into a darkly lit 1920s bar. It is funky, cosy and inviting. It is also right next to their other Brooklyn establishment, Diner, which is another of our favourites in that part of the world. The menu encapsulates brevity. Dishes are usually listed as one or two words such as olives or beef tongue or pasta or cauliflower or brick chicken.
We ordered the tongue and the pasta as our first courses.
The tongue turned out to be slices of beef tongue served on toast that had been slathered with bone marrow butter and served with a salad of very good purslane. This was a very good dish which matched nicely with an unusual Foufoune Crozes Hermitage we were drinking. We say it is unusual because we are fans of two producers from this general area, namely the well-known Dard & Ribo and the Ardeche producer Herve Souhart. The Foufoune, however was produced by Dard & Souhart! Anyway it was a beautiful wine showing some of the funkiness we attribute to Dard and the elegance we ascribe to Souhart.
Our other dish was very well made pappardelle smothered in lovely melted cheese with the flavour boosted by long cooked rabbit, nettles, garlic and green olives. This was a fine dish!
We then looked forward to our main course which was the aforementioned Brick Chicken which we had decided to share. This was a fine dish with half a golden chicken served with two spoons of vibrant green consisting of shallots, garlic, more nettles and parmesan. The sauce was light and delicate. Overall this was a very impressive dish.
The wine list offered a number of our favourite wines including the elegant Domaine Milan from Henri Milan of St Remy de Provence, the Plantation 1902 which is the sensational Aligote of Alice and Olivier de Moor, the Julien Courtois "Originel" which is a blend of Menu Pineau and Romorantin, the lovely "Le Rouchefer" made from Chenin Blanc by Rene and Agnes Mosse (they also have their pale pink Moussamoussettes a sparkling wine that is the darling of smart Paris wine bars), a Chardonnay from Domaine de la Cadette who produce wines in the Vezelay region of outstanding purity, "Le Telquel" from natural wine icon Thierry Puzelat, the scrumptious "Ca Va Bien" sparkling wine from Jura star Philippe Bornard or you can tuck into a magnum of Pinot Noir from Herve Villemade from the Loire Valley. A totally impressive line up and we haven't even mentioned Domaine Gramenon, Jean Foillard, Domaine Lapierre, Vouette & Sorbee, Domaine Gramenon, Dard & Ribo, Dard & Souhart, Domaine Belliviere and Domaine Chamonard or some of the other natural wine stars that grace this totally impressive list.
Marlow and Sons is a venue of the calibre of Zuni Café. When we arrive in San Francisco we immediately head for Zuni. Now, when we arrive at Kennedy we first want to seek comfort at Marlow or Diner (their other next door restaurant) before taking on the plethora of excitement New York.
 
     
 

 


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