Le Baratin | Natural wine | restaurant | Paris | France

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Review
 
Le Baratin Heart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 43 49 39 70
Address: 3, rue Jouye-Rouve
Paris
Country: France

Le Baratin is a Paris institution that was one of the first restaurants in that city to focus on serving natural wines. The food is very good and the range of natural wines extensive.
You will need to book here as it is a perennially popular venue and on our recent venue many prospective diners were being turned away due to lack of tables.
The dishes of the day are chalked on a portable blackboard which is placed close to your table so that you can peruse the menu. Wine is agreed to by negotiation with the sommelier who prefers to match a wine to the dishes you have ordered. He is also willing to pull something interesting out of the cellar.
Good bread is placed on the table at the beginning of the meal.
To start we had a satisfying dish of gazpacho in a large white bowl with a swirl of olive oil - perfect for a hot summer’s night. As was a dish of slightly marinated raw mackerel served with matchsticks of black radish.
When we asked for an obscure natural wine to go with our lamb and pintade the sommelier suggested a Vin de France from Domaine Chahut et Prodiges in the Touraine who produce a non-sulphured 100% Gamay. This was a fascinating wine. It burst with life having not been deadened by added sulphur. It had a strawberry flavour that was quite persistent and a silky feel in the mouth like a good Gamay should. It was a perfect food match.
The lamb from Lozere was presented quite simply on the bone with potatoes and spinach along with some of the cooking juices from the lamb. The dish was delicate, full of flavour and lacking in artifice. Good food presented well.
The pintade (Guinea Fowl) was also presented very simply accompanied by tiny onions (grelots) from Italy and a fresh ginger sauce.
Dessert was a soup of strawberries to which sparkling Cerdon de Bugey was added at the table. A perfect end to the meal.
Le Baratin is a great bistro with a lively ambience, stunning floor tiles, good service and lovely food to accompany the intelligent selection of wines.
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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