Le Chateaubriand | Paris 11th | Inaki Aizpitarte | Natural wine

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Review
 
Le Chateaubriand Heart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Open: Lunch Tue - Fri, dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 43 57 45 95
Address: 129, Avenue Parmentier
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Le Chateaubriand is a wonderful, old-fashioned bistro serving 'new' food in the 11th arrondissement of Paris. The food cooked by Basque chef Inaki Aizpitarte is excellent and sometimes exciting and the wine list is new and clever with lots of our favourite organic and natural wines available.
The wine list is an homage to the great new winemakers of France. While it only extends over a couple of pages it ranges from Overnoy's Arbois Pupillin to Dard and Ribo's St Joseph to Herve Villemade's stunning Les Ardilles and to the wines of Agnes and Rene Mosse who are idolised in the Loire and beyond. They also have the Chaussard wines from the little known Coteaux de Loire appellation. From further south they feature the gorgeous, velvet-smooth wines of Domaine Gramenon from the Cotes du Rhone appellation.
Our recent meal started with a bang. A beetroot foam studded with pieces of beautiful tofu made our palates stand up and pay attention. And we had a great wine experience at this point. Most people, equate white Burgundy wines with the Chardonnay grape. Some cognescenti add Aligote to that list. Some obscurists know that Sauvignon Blanc is permitted in the Saint Bris appellation which is within the Burgundy confines. However there is another white wine lurking here made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape. We matched the first dishes with a Melon de Bourgogne from Domaine de la Cadette which was exciting, pure and clean. It worked well with the tofu dish.
The set meal then progressed through a delightful rocket and radish salad to fish teamed with perfectly fresh white asparagus to onglet steak and then to the only low point, the dessert. However even this was rescued by an Antoine Arena sweet muscat of astonishing purity. This Corsican winemaker is a favourite and his wines are made with respect for the environment.
The atmosphere is electric, the service is excellent, the cooking stunning and the clientele eclectic. This is a place to know about!
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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