Chez Remi | chef Remi Fournie | restaurant | Angers | France | Natural wine

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Review
 
Chez Remi HeartHeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Angers
Open: Lunch Tue - Fri, dinner Mon - Fri
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 2 41 24 95 44
Address: 5 Rue des 2 Haies
Angers, 49100
Country: France

Chez Remi is a delightful restaurant in the centre of the Loire city of Angers. Here chef Remi Fournie cooks soulful food for the locals who come back for his food time and time again. He has recently moved the restaurant from its former tiny space to new premises in the centre of the old town opposite the ever-popular bar, Le Cercle Rouge.
We remember when we first walked in to the former location of Chez Remi - the feeling of pride in their work emanated from the staff in this tiny, red-painted, box-like establishment where every diner could see the chefs working in the open kitchen.
The greeting was warm and welcoming. The menu was chalked on a blackboard. There were three entrees, three main courses and three desserts (plus a cheese course). We wanted to try every dish.
First we ordered lamb's kidneys (rognons d'Agneau fermier) and a soup of cauliflower spiced with ginger (veloute de chou-fleur au gingembre). The lamb's kidneys were cooked perfectly, drizzled with a little of their cooking juices and accompanied by a perfectly-dressed salad of endive scattered lightly with mustard seeds. The soup was served in a small light-blue bowl and was lightly flavoursome and used exactly the right amount of ginger - a spice that can overwhelm when used by lesser chefs.
We found it hard to choose a wine from the small, but clever, list. They favour natural wines here and the Loire is a hot bed of natural wine production. Agnes and Rene Mosse command attention on the wine list for their delicious Anjou wines, as do Philippe Tessier for his Cheverny whites and reds and the Chaussards for their Jasniere white. But we decided to try a wine from Pascal Potaire of les Capriades. The wine is classified as a Vin de Table, but this wine is just one more example of why you should never ignore this often overlooked classification. There are many great winemakers who use this classification because they either do not comply with the requirements for an AOC classifications or their vineyards are outside the boundaries of the appellation. This wine was delicious with the offal dishes we were sampling. This biodynamic wine was fresh, vibrant and lively and tasted of grapes and nothing but grapes.
Main courses were a pave of milk-fed veal and a special of veal sweetbreads. Both of these dishes were perfectly executed and brilliantly sauced. The sweetbreads were close to the best we have ever eaten!
Deserts were faisselle fermiere with a drizzle of lavender honey and a feuilletine chocolat and these brought the meal to a very satisfactory conclusion, especially as they were accompanied by a Rochard Coteaux du Layon from the nearby vineyards and a Muscat du Cap Corse by Antoine Arena from Corsica. It was an evening to remember and a meal to remember.
And now the premises are much larger in their new location, but the food is still as precise and the wine list even more extensive but just as focussed on the best of natural wines from the Loire.
We visited again in September 2014 and thoroughly enjoyed the extensive wine selection and our old favourite dishes including excellent roasted pigeon and lamb shoulder from the Aveyron.
 
     
 

Chez Remi lamb kidneys.

Chez Remi lamb kidneys

Chez Remi sweetbreads.

Chez Remi sweetbreads
 
     


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