Le Bistrot Paul Bert | restaurant | Paris | France | Natural wine

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Review
 
Le Bistrot Paul Bert Heart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.852223,2.384857
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 14.5

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 1 43 72 24 01
Address: 18 Rue Paul Bert
Paris, 75011
Country: France

Le Bistrot Paul Bert is a lively, buzzy place to go for delicious food and very interesting wine in an atmosphere that is typical Parisian bistro.
When you arrive you will be shown to an 'undressed' table on which will soon be placed a standard basket with some good, strong bread. The cutlery is solid and serviceable. Decoration is a mix of kitsch meets avant-garde. The wine list reveals a number of national treasures and leans towards wines that can be described as 'natural' such as our choice of Herve Villemade's delicious Cheverny blanc. You can also order the stunning Burgundies from Puzelat or the precise and complex Syrah from the Ardeche made by Herve Souhart and released as a Vin de Table. In fact quite a few of the wines are Vin de Table or Vin de Pays. These wines can often represent the best value in France, particularly when produced by master wine makers such as Souhart.
The food sits somewhere between the studied traditionalism of many Parisian bistros and the modernists such as Le Chateaubriand.
We ordered asparagus with a sauce mousseline and eggs with morels. Both of these dishes were executed flawlessly. Similarly with our main courses of roast chicken with morels and the classic 'Pied de cochon' which was a perfect accompaniment to the silky Souhart Syrah.
The only disappointment was with the desserts. A rum baba was very large and topped with gas whipped cream! A tarte tartin seemed to us to have been reheated thus damaging the pastry which was tough.
Overall however this was a good meal with some very enjoyable flavours and textures and very good wine.
 
     
 
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