Italian Restaurant in Torino (Turin), Italy: Ristorante del Cambio

Review
 
Ristorante del Cambio Heart
Restaurant
Torino
Open: Closed Sundays
Price: Expensive
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: 011 546690
Address: Piazza Carignano, 2
Torino (Turin), Torino, 10123
Country: Italy
Food Style: Italian

We were a bit concerned about eating at Restaurant del Cambio. It certainly was highly recommended. We thought it probably had a Michelin star or two but it sounded like it might be one of those stuffy places that survive on their reputation rather than on their food.
Well we were wrong!
Our meal at Cambio turned out to be a satisfying and thoroughly enjoyable survey of the food and wines of the Piedmontese region, made all the better by excellent and thoughtful service.
We were very keen to find somewhere in northern Italy that served finanziera - that wonderful dish of the 'inside' bits of chicken. (The name on the menu is La finanziera del Cambio con semolino dolce.) At Cambio it was presented very simply in a flat, round white bowl with no colour to distract the eye. All that was used as accompaniment was two deep fried blobs of polenta.
Cocottina alla crema di tartufo was served in a small bowl along with instructions to stir the almost raw egg yolk into the cream. The heavy smell of white truffles exploded into the air. This dish was rich but delightful. It is difficult to imagine eating black truffles again after this experience.
The Agnolotti tradizione del Cambio al sugo d'arrosto came next. The slightly dry filling was offset against a thin but strongly flavoured sauce. The other second dish was an excellent, fresh and lively mushroom soup.
Cosciotto di agnello saw the lamb being cooked to medium. The lamb was very sweet and was accompanied by stewed onions and some fairly ordinary piped potato.
The dish that we had been searching for however, was the brasato - in fact, brasato della vena al vino Barolo con polenta (beef braised in red wine and served with polenta). We imagined that it might be 'tricked up' in such an establishment but it was uncompromisingly authentic! The meat had been cooked for so long that even the sinews were perfectly edible. The deep fried polenta served as a perfect foil to the richness of the dish as did the fabulous Barolo Riserve Speciale from Ettore e Livia Fontana.
We finished a great meal with pears poached in wine and nine petit-fours!
This was one of the best meal we have eaten in Italy. The restaurant is grand without being overwhelming, the food is excellent and the service faultless and friendly.
 
     
     
     


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