Ribouldingue Restaurant | Offal | Paris | France | Natural wine

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Review
 
Ribouldingue Restaurant Heart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.852413,2.347099
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 01 46 33 98 80
Address: 10 rue Saint Julien le Pauvre
Paris, 75005
Country: France

Ribouldingue Restaurant is a delightful, small venue not too far from the Notre Dame. Here you will be served some of the best offal dishes in the city including an Os a Moelle that would make St John in London envious!
As you approach the restaurant you can't help but notice the crazy lettering that adorns the outside of the small building. You know you have arrived at the right place!
The two rooms are small but quite attractive. The tables are closely-spaced requiring some negotiation when you need to move.
The food is primarily, but not entirely based around offal. Those who are unfortunate enough not to like such items do have a small selection of dishes from which they can choose. But it was offal we were here for and that is what we ate.
We started with a small amuse bouche of terrine of pork hock served on a rectangular board matched with a delicate salad of beetroot leaves.
We chose two wines by the glass to accompany the first round of food. One was a glass of Sancerre from Domaine Naudet and the other was a glass of Burgundy from Philippe Pacalet who is one of the winemakers in that region who makes wine the way we desperately hope that more people will adopt. He uses organic methods in the vineyard and then, when he crushes the grapes he leaves the fermentation to the yeasts that cling to the grape skins - not some artificial yeast concoction created in a laboratory which stamps a dull flavour on every wine it infects.
We could also have started with some interesting sparkling wines as well because there is a great selection of aperitifs including a Cerdon du Bugey from Alain Renardat-Fache, a Coteaux du Layon from the Gelineau family at Château de la Viaudière, a Vin de Passilerage from Joseph Binner and a Vin cuit Provencal from Domaine les Bastides near Aix-en-Provence.
For our first courses we ordered lamb tongue (Vinaigrette de tongues d'agneau) with a tartare sauce and roasted marrow bones (Os a moelle roti). Both dishes were stunning with the three halved bones oozing with sticky unctuous marrow being a standout.
While we waited for our main courses we perused the short but excellent wine list where the wines have been carefully chosen to match the robust foods and also to express the best of the lesser known French appellations and domaines. Therefore the selection from Bandol was not the widely known Tempier but the biodynamic and natural Chateau Sainte Anne. Similarly the Cotes-du-Rhone is represented by the lovely offerings from Chateau des Tours and the seriously natural Domaine Gramenon and the appellations of Collioure (Bruno Duchene) and Bellet (Jean Massa) are invited to rub shoulders with their better known cousins.
The bottle representing Burgundy is from Domaine Latour-Giraud whose vineyards are in many of the well known areas such as Meursault, Pommard and Volnay but the one chosen for the wine list is the robust Maranges instead.
We opted for a bottle from the tiny Bellet appellation in the suburbs of Nice by organic producer Jean Massa. This beautiful wine complemented the dishes we were about to sample perfectly.
A whole veal kidney was served simply and unadorned except for a light jus. On the side was a gratin dauphinois served in the dish in which it was cooked. The kidney was a sensation! Cooked slightly pink, it was soft and flavourful and every mouthful reinforced just how well it had been cooked.
And the same applied to a deep, round, white bowl loaded with tripes au vin blanc and potatoes. This was one of the best ripe dishes we have ever eaten - and we have eaten a lot!
Desserts saw us ordering two very well-executed dishes, namely Sable Breton with a mousse de marron vanille and a gratin de poire Comice.
This was a very, very good meal with technical mastery being shown in all dishes.
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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