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Le Jeu de Quilles
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Restaurant
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Paris
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Open:
Lunch Tue - Sat
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
14.5
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+33 01 53 90 76 22
Address:
45, rue Boulard
Paris, 75014
Country:
France
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Le Jeu de Quilles is a very special, tiny restaurant with less than twenty seats where the chef (formerly of les Fines Gueules) prepares interesting comfort food in the open kitchen among particularly convivial surroundings.The regular customers chat constantly with the laid-back chef. The prices are very reasonable with the fixed-price lunch being only 25 Euros for three courses. On the day we visited there was a dish of petits poireaux vinaigrette which we were delighted with as leeks are one of our favourite vegetables. We also enjoyed a pastilla de poulet and a pave de bar de ligne for main courses. A crème caramel for dessert was also very special.The wines here are carefully selected with an emphasis on biodynamic and natural wines. We have had a fruity Cotes Catalanes from Olivier Pithon who tends his vineyard near Perpignan and a smooth-as-silk Beaujolais from the Chiroubles cru made by Damien Coquelet. Look also for other natural wines such as the Macon-Villages from Domaine Valette, the Beaumes-de-Venise from Guy Jullien of La Ferme Saint Martin who tends his vineyard in the beautful hills near Suzette, the natural Touraine Gamay called Rouge Madon by Christian Venier and, of course, the Bourgueil by Catherine Breton.
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