d'Meure | Pinot Noir | Chardonnay | Natural wine | Birchs Bay | Tasmania

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d'Meure Wines HeartHeartHeart
Natural wine
Tasmania country

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson And Roger McShane
Phone Number: +61 3 6267 4483
Address: Tasmania, 7162
Country: Australia

d'Meure wines are some of the best on the island of Tasmania where some very good wines are produced. If you like clean, clinical, international wines these are not for you.
If you like funky, individualistic, natural wines with character and charm then try some of the Pinot Noir or Chardonnay that are made in a very traditional Burgundian style using wild ferments and eschewing modern techniques that have been responsible for the dumbing down of wine, such as filtering and fining.
When we think of how terroir in wines is masked these days we think that the use of commercial yeasts is the most damaging. Commercially produced yeasts have a dramatic and deleterious effect on wines. They provide a conformity and a 'safety' that clinical winemakers love but those who want to taste 'real' wines hate because the true flavour of the grapes is masked.
Much is talked about the stars of the natural wine movement in France and how they are returning to winemaking as it should be without the use of chemicals or excessive technological intervention. We support this very strongly. But we also like to point out that there are some winemakers in Australia who are bucking the trend and also producing wines that are made naturally.
Dirk Meure knows what needs to be done to make wines of great character and charm. He takes good care of his beautiful close-planted vineyard that slopes down to the placid waters of Birchs Bay south of Hobart.
The grapes are hand-harvested and then treated carefully in the winemaking process. No sulphur is added to kill the native yeasts so that they can do their good work fermenting the grapes. No chemical or other 'foreign' additives are used during the winemaking process.
The result is a delicious Burgundian Pinot Noir with lovely depth of colour and pure fruit flavours that linger and caress. The Chardonnay and Pinot Gris are also beautiful examples of the best of natural winemaking. We particularly like the 2008 Chardonnay which is the first wild ferment white wine from this vineyard. We have tasted this wine many times over the past years and every time we open a bottle it is different. It twists and turns and shows different faces to us. Sometimes it mocks us, sometimes it charms us, sometimes it enthrals us and sometimes it is enigmatic. But every time it is compelling. This is a great wine.
We have recently been also charmed by the 2010 Chardonnay which has amazing potential and we believe that this will turn into one of the best Tasmanian wines in a long time. The 2011 Pinot Noir is also a stunner!
But Dirk always has a surprise in store. His 2012 white wine called Rory is a blend of all the white grapes in the vineyard (Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and Sauvignon Blanc) and for this vintage it was left on skins for a few weeks to extract the colour and tannins from the skins to produce a delightful wine in the orange wine genre similar to those produced in the Friuli region of Italy. This is a mellow beauty. It displays all the best characteristics of an orange wine without displaying any harsh tannins.
The best place to find the d'Meure wines is at Franklin in Hobart, who are very strong supporters of locally produced natural wines.
Dirk has now sold the vineyard, so no wines will be produced under this label any more.

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