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Arpege
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Restaurant
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Paris
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Credit Cards:
All major cards
Price:
Expensive
Score (/20):
18
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+33 1 45 51 47 33
Address:
84 Rue de Varenne
Paris, 75007
Country:
France
Food Style:
French
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Arpege seems to be one of those restaurants, and Alain Passard one of those chefs, that people either love or hate. And the reactions seem to be complex. We can't predict who will hate it. Some of our friends who share almost the same opinions about most restaurants warned us that we wouldn't like Arpege. Some disliked the service, some disliked the space and some disliked the food!However, we believed that we needed to make up our own mind so ensured that it was on the itinerary on a recent trip to Paris.It is easy to find if you are lovers of sculpture, as it is just over the road from the fabulous Rodin museum. The corner building is discrete for a three star Michelin. It is also quite small and not at all ostentatious. This made us warm to it. From the moment we walked through the front door we were made to feel very welcome. The welcome was good humoured and solicitous despite our poor grasp of the French language. A glass of champagne appeared on the table rapidly. A long, thin bread roll with pointed ends and a slice of sourdough kept the hunger pangs away while we perused the menu. The thick round of butter reminded us of just how good French butter is when compared with the awful, pale, flavourless variety inflicted on us in many of the restaurants we had just visited in the United States.Our taste buds were then smoothed and relaxed by a tiny, ethereal crab cream pastry that was so simple, yet so perfect! We then were presented with one of the signature dishes of the house which was a cold dish of egg served in the shell with herbs, pepper and mustard. The complex flavours were well-integrated and intriguing.All the while we were watching the highly professional staff negotiate their way among the tables and diners in this small, but adequate space. At times we counted over twenty staff moving effortlessly through the cramped spaces, sometimes carrying huge platters of cheese or serious cartons of cigars.We then moved to starters and even more surprises! The Coquilles Saint-Jacques were, amazingly, wrapped in wafer thin slices of cauliflower and accompanied by an intensely sweet sauce that had been based on grape resin. This was definitely on-the-edge fare, but it was still deeply-rooted in classical techniques. It was designed to wake up the palate and to encourage you to think about eating - very Left Bank!The huitres de Marennes were served in a jelly based on sea water and were mounted on a tiny dollop of cream. Bursting with salty flavours this was a perfect dish to choose as a counterpoint to the sweet scallops (we were of course sharing the dishes). A half bottle from Clos de la Mouchere by Jean Bolliot et fils was perfect as the accompaniment.For our main course, the waiter suggested a special of the day - canard sauvage. This was presented whole at the table and then taken to the kitchen for carving. This was an exercise in restraint. The rare breast meat was accompanied by a slice of roast pear with some horseradish cream on the side. The darker meat was served with the roasting juices - perfect! The strong meat was a good foil for a young Domaine Forey Echezeaux.Following a pleasant cheese course from the massive and very impressive array presented, we decided to approach one of the signature desserts of the restaurant. Confit tomatoes cooked with twelve flavours is an unlikely dessert but it worked for us. Complex, sweet, spicy, and unctuous this dish needed a wine that was not too sweet. The helpful sommelier suggested a lighter style and steered us towards the Domaine Cauhape Jurancon by Henri Ramonteu. It worked perfectly.The meal finished with the obligatory petit fours. We had to ask for them to stop after the first four plates!We have heard many conflicting reports of Arpege. From our experience, however, we can do nothing but offer the highest praise for a highly professional operation that seeks to push the limits and provide some exciting wake up calls to diners.
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