Le Potager des Halles | restaurant | Lyon, France

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Review
 
Le Potager des Halles HeartHeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Lyon
Open: Lunch and dinner Tue - Sat
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15

Reviewed By

Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
Phone Number: +33 4 72 00 24 84
Address: 3 rue de la Martiniere
Lyon, 69001
Country: France

Le Potager des Halles is a small, lively restaurant in the emerging Martiniere restaurant district of Lyon that could lay claim to being the best restaurant for foodies seeking out the best that Lyon has to offer. It is one of those restaurants that you will want to return to again and again to experience the comforting food and the friendly, relaxed service offered by Mai and Franck Delhoum.
They come to their pleasant, new restaurant with a fine pedigree as Franck was formerly the chef at Paul Bocuse's leading brasserie in Lyon, L'Ouest. If you want to imagine the style of food served here think onglet rather than fillet, think sweetbreads rather than foie gras and think of cleverly-selected local wines (J P Brun or Yvon Métras from nearby Beaujolais or Alain Gallety from the Ardèche to the south) rather than Petrus or Salon.
We vividly remember a thickly pureed vegetable soup enhanced with that wonderfully flavoursome Mediterranean fish rascasse, which is the essential, magical ingredient of bouillabaisse. The soup had been lifted with a light curry flavouring to produce a tightly integrated, harmonious array of flavours.
Main courses of beef stew served with polenta and fish fillets sitting on a fricassee of courgettes that has been braised with Espelette pepper were both deeply satisfying. We enjoyed these dishes with a Yvon Métras L'Ultime Fleurie. This lovely cru Beaujolais had elegance and length but did not overpower the food.
We also remember being blown away by the wine and food combination we tried with a dessert of fromage blanc with raspberries in a perfect pastry and cherries with ice cream. The wine was from Beaujolais iconoclast J. P. Brun. His 'In Extremis' is made in the style of a Tokaji with the complication that he uses a combination of late picked and regular grapes which combine to produce a golden liquid of considerable complexity that is sweet on the palate but finishes with a refreshing dryness. You could drink this as an aperitif, match it with scallops or, as we did, team it with a delicate dessert.
This is a comforting restaurant that we will visit again on our next foray into this historic and charming city.
 
     
     
     


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