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Longrain
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Restaurant
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Sydney
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Open:
Lunch and dinner Mon - Sat
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
14.5
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+61 2 9280 2888
Address:
85 Commonwealth St
Surry Hills, New South Wales, 2010
Country:
Australia
Food Style:
Thai
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We sometimes get nervous when we hear that an acolyte of a great chef has set up their own restaurant. Paris is littered with restaurants set up by disciples of Joel Robuchon. Californian restaurants are packed with chefs claiming descent from Alice Waters. In Australia there are many who have studied with Stephanie Alexander or Neil Perry. Sometimes these people are successful and other times they are dismal failures. There is a huge difference between being able to repeat a dish designed by a master and designing your own balanced menu and sourcing the produce for it.So it was with great interest that we went to Longrain to see if the chef who had worked with David Thompson (who is a fanatic regarding menu design) could transfer those complex ideas to the new restaurant. Well we needn't have worried - the food presented to us was exciting, interesting and well-balanced.We walked in to the large, warehouse-like space over polished wooden floors to one of the three large, wide tables that provide the main seating. A bar and side tables provide more in the main room.We started with a warm salad of tea smoked oysters with chilli jam deep and fried garlic and the traditional betel leaves topped with shredded chicken and smoked chilli, tomato and garlic relish. Both dishes were beautifully executed.Because we are weak-willed we allowed the waiter to talk us into the duck and shiitake dumpling soup as a third main dish to share. We were glad he did because the broth had a lovely depth of flavour and the dumplings were silky and sumptuous. This was followed by a dish of steamed fish with cabbage and Chinese broccoli that was light and a good foil to the braised beef shin that was rich and unctuous and utterly lovely.We continue to visit Longrain because it quickly established itself as an integral part of the Sydney dining scene.On another visit in 2001 we again tried the betel leaves, but this time they were done with smoked trout, crispy garlic, galangal and trout roe. They were just as successful as on our first visit. Similarly a dish of steamed whole snapper was very satisfying, and the sauce made from yellowbean and ginger complemented the delicate fish perfectly. We finished with a red curry of spatchcock. It was quite mild but very flavourful. A Metier 1999 Viognier was a good accompaniment to the meal.We have been back a number of times since, both for a drink and snacks in the bar area or for lunch or dinner. Every time we have left well satisfied with our experience.
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