French Restaurant in Paris, France: Les Papilles | Natural wine

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Les Papilles HeartHeart
Restaurants and bars
Paris
Location: 48.844598,2.341673
Price: Moderate
Score (/20): 15
Phone Number: 01 43 25 20 79
Address: 30, rue Gay Lussac
Paris, 75005
Country: France
Food Style: French

Les Papilles is the sort of restaurant we love. It doesn't appear to be chasing Michelin stardom, rather the chef looks to be comfortable cooking very good food to an adoring clientele in amiable surroundings dominated by the fine wines on offer for either consumption on the premises or for takeaway.
Tables are arranged along a wall that contains the wide selection of wine bottles. As the meal progresses your fellow diners will wander along, stop near your table and peruse the wines above your head. There might be a polite request for you to pass them a Vincent Dancer Bourgogne or a Domaine des Lises Crozes Hermitage or the cult Domaine de la Grange des Peres Vin de Pays.
We spied a Chinon by star winemakers Catherine and Pierre Breton and thought that the Cabernet Franc would work well with the long cooked pork dish on offer. This wine has exceptionally fine tannins and is a perfect expression of the capability of this Loire appellation.
The menu is fixed and there is no choice. On the night we were there we started with a gazpacho soup. A large white tureen was brought to the table along with two plates where a quenelle of goat cheese, some bacon, chopped peppers, chives, cucumber, tomato and fresh herbs had been placed. We then served the soup. It was a good soup and the flavours worked well.
Next came the pork dish in a large copper dish. The pork had been cooked slowly over a long period of time it was topped with an array of vegetables including green beans, cauliflower, peas and carrots, all of which had been properly cooked. The dish was very successful.
This was followed by a small slice of blue cheese. It was the wonderful, creamy Fourme d'Ambert from the Auvergne region. It was accompanied by a prune that had been cooked in red wine. This was a lovely composed course reminiscent of cheese dishes we have had at The French Laundry.
And then what we thought was the best dish of the night. A perfect strawberry panacotta served in a chunky glass.
Les Papilles is a great venue and the type of comfortable place serving great food that we will return to again and again.
 
     
 

 

 

 
     


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