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Le Passage
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Restaurant
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Aix-en-Provence
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Open:
Lunch and dinner daily
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
15
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+33 4 42 370 900
Address:
10 rue Villars
Aix en Provence, Provence, 13100
Country:
France
Food Style:
French
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Dining at Le Passage is an interesting experience. On first entering the building (you walk past the raw bar and along a long passage that leads into the cavernous dining space) the sheer scale of the enterprise makes you wonder whether they are going to be able to deliver good food. Nicely set tables are arranged across the floor in sight of the impressive wine display behind the bar. Tables are set with a central cloth, orange water glasses, a low candle and fresh flowers. The room is dominated by Warhol prints. Waiters glide confidently through the room.The wine list is impressive with one of our favourites, Chateau Simone, figuring prominently. Domaine les Pallieres is also available as is the cult Vin de Pays from Domaine de Trevallon which has ignored the requirements of the local appellation (by producing a 100% Cabernet, for example) and hence lost its AOC status.We started with a glass of Tsarine champagne from the Chanoine brothers, moved on to Chateau Simone and then with the lamb enjoyed a glass of the wonderful Luberon red from Chateau la Verrerie made by the Descours family.Reine Sammut runs the acclaimed La Fenière in Lourmarin and she has installed her talented second chef Franck Dumont to oversee the cooking at Le Passage.We thoroughly enjoyed a carpaccio of St Pierre (a white fish which is similar to or the same as John Dory) dressed with some very good olive oil and a fine dish of warm foie gras served with a tiny mache salad and a mushroom ragout. This was a sensational dish that we will remember for a very long time.Main courses were equally impressive, particularly an unctuous dish of seven hour lamb. The desserts were also very good. We couldn't resist ordering one that was titled "Symphonie no 5, pomme, pomme, pomme, pomme" which turned out to be apples done in a variety of ways include tartin, apple crumble, dried apple slice and a lovely sorbet.Le Passage is a serious restaurant serving very serious food in a relaxed and convivial atmosphere.
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