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Donovans
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Restaurant
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Melbourne
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Open:
Lunch and dinner daily
Price:
Moderate
Score (/20):
14
Reviewed By
Sue Dyson and Roger McShane
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Phone Number:
+61 3 9534 8221
Address:
40 Jacka Boulevard
St Kilda, Victoria, 3182
Country:
Australia
E-Mail:
eat@donovanshouse.com.au
Food Style:
Modern Australian
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Donovan's is a large restaurant given an aura of intimacy by the unusual "this is our home" décor. Jars of fruit line the side walls. Family photos adorn the end wall. Large windows overlook the bay. Large, comfortable couches are provided for those wanting to relax completely.The service is speedy and efficient despite the fact that their uniforms are somewhat reminiscent of those of the Hare Krishna sect.We have been to Donovans on a number of occasions and admire the consistency of the cooking and the generally flawless nature of the service. On our most recent visit both of the owners were on the floor and working hard to satisfy their many regular customers.A pastie of wild rabbit with dressed leaves and grilled fennel was an interesting start to the meal although the pastry around the finely minced rabbit was slightly tough. The fennel was lovely. The young, fresh squid with parsley stuffing and anchovy and sage fritters was very nicely cooked. The anchovy and sage fritters were almost as good as the ones we had tried on many occasions at the late and lamented Chez Phat in the city.We made a mistake with our ordering for main courses. After the thousands of meals we have ordered over the years we still can get it wrong! We wanted to try a Bonny Doon red and therefore ordered the oxtail and the lamb as we thought they would compliment the big wine. The oxtail came with caramelised vegetables and a sweetish pudding and the lamb (cutlet, braised shoulder, sausage and kidney) was accompanied by a side order of braised brussel sprouts. The problem that we experienced was that both dishes were cooked perfectly, but they were both accompanied by unrelentingly sticky, over-reduced sauces straight out of the 1980s. They were just too reduced and too sticky for our liking. We know that this is a personal problem we have and we know that there are probably many people out there who like them - we don't. In future we will ask the waiter for a description of the style of sauce to be served.So overall the most recent meal was very good, although marred by our ordering. We will quite happily go back since other meals we have had have been excellent.
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